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Buying your first serious watch

Cartier boutique facade

The first serious watch is usually bought with the heart and regretted with the head. Three things are worth checking before anything else: proportion on your wrist, the integrity of the bracelet, and the completeness of the set.

Proportion is personal — a 41mm Submariner wears larger on a 16cm wrist than the photographs suggest. Bracelet stretch tells you how the watch was worn; a stretched Oyster bracelet is expensive to correct. And papers matter: a full set can be worth 15–20 per cent more than a watch alone.

Finally, buy the seller. A five-figure watch from an unknown source is a five-figure risk. Ask for the inspection report, the provenance and a return window — and walk away from anyone who hesitates.


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