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How to read a Rolex dial, surface by surface

Mechanical watch movement close-up

A dial is not a flat surface. Under a loupe it becomes a landscape: the sunburst brushing that throws light from a single point, the lacquer built up in seven passes, the applied indices set at a tolerance measured in hundredths of a millimetre.

When we inspect a piece, the dial is where we begin. Print should be crisp under 10x magnification; the coronet should be applied, not printed, on modern references; the rehaut engraving should align precisely with the minute track.

Dial originality is also the single largest driver of value in the secondary market. A “service dial” — a replacement fitted during repair — can remove twenty per cent from a watch’s worth, which is why we photograph every dial before listing and state plainly what we find.


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